Everyone in China is freaked out about the swine flu, and rightly so. China is crowded and dirty. Several people live together in apartments the size of some U.S. families’ living rooms. Many apartment buildings have shared bathrooms that are, needless to say, filthy. And friends share food and drinks all the time.
Universities are especially concerned. Students are housed six or eight people per tiny dorm room. Libraries, dining halls, and classrooms are all crowded and thousands of people use them every day.
The number one in Chinese is “yi” so everyone says H-yi-N-yi, which I find very funny. If they say “H” and “N” (not Chinese) can’t they also say “one”? Actually, I’m wondering what other countries say in their languages… for example in Russian, what looks like an “H” says “N” and they don’t go around translating the name of the swine flu into н-один-N-один. No, no one does that. H-uno-N-uno, H-eins-N-eins, H-un-N-un? Anyone?
But back on topic, last week I entered Zhuan Jia Lou - where I live - and the desk workers stopped me and checked my temperature. Beside my name and room number they carefully recorded my temperature to the thousandths decimal place.
And just today, all the international students met in an auditorium, and the police talked to us about safely and sanitation. (I’m not sure why it was the police who came… that doesn’t really make sense, does it?) Then they gave everyone a fairly large bottle of disinfecting solution. As soon as I had hot water tonight, I cleaned everything in my room. I’m not so worried about getting the swine flu; I just like to clean things, especially in China.
I would also like to mention that the cleaning solution they gave us was produced and bottled in Lanzhou, by the Lanzhou Numerous Sterilization Products Company. It’s “galloping horse” brand, and is called 84. Impressive.
15 October 2009
Water
Water has such a huge impact on the way I live my life in China. First of all, I have to boil water before I can drink it. There is no such thing as clean water here. I try not to think about the things that are killed when it’s boiled…
Not only that, but I only have hot water from the faucet certain hours per day: 7-8:30 am and 9-11 pm. Unfortunately, since I live on the top floor of the building, I don’t get water until about 30 minutes after it’s supposed to start. And I can’t take a shower in the morning because I’ll be late for class. Every evening I eat a late dinner with my friends; we keep a close eye on the clock and leave to take showers around 10:30. Sometimes we all come back to hang out some more after 11.
A few times there has been no water at all, hot or cold. On these days, I wash my face in bottled water. I think about how ridiculous this is to both extremes. On one hand, I feel spoiled to be using bottled water, like those people who give their pets bottled water to drink, or who water their plants with it. Seriously, guys? But on the other hand, I’m in freaking China and I don’t have a single drop of water from the faucet, and if I did it would be contaminated. So either way I look at it, I can’t believe I wash with bottled water…
Anyway, I’m used to washing my hands, etc., in cold water now, but showers are another matter. I’ve had my share of cold showers this semester. I thought I was getting pretty tough, until I realized that every time I get a cold, it’s the day after a freezing shower. Wives tales? Listen to them.
Not only that, but I only have hot water from the faucet certain hours per day: 7-8:30 am and 9-11 pm. Unfortunately, since I live on the top floor of the building, I don’t get water until about 30 minutes after it’s supposed to start. And I can’t take a shower in the morning because I’ll be late for class. Every evening I eat a late dinner with my friends; we keep a close eye on the clock and leave to take showers around 10:30. Sometimes we all come back to hang out some more after 11.
A few times there has been no water at all, hot or cold. On these days, I wash my face in bottled water. I think about how ridiculous this is to both extremes. On one hand, I feel spoiled to be using bottled water, like those people who give their pets bottled water to drink, or who water their plants with it. Seriously, guys? But on the other hand, I’m in freaking China and I don’t have a single drop of water from the faucet, and if I did it would be contaminated. So either way I look at it, I can’t believe I wash with bottled water…
Anyway, I’m used to washing my hands, etc., in cold water now, but showers are another matter. I’ve had my share of cold showers this semester. I thought I was getting pretty tough, until I realized that every time I get a cold, it’s the day after a freezing shower. Wives tales? Listen to them.
Islam
My friend from Uzbekistan, Rustam, is teaching me about Islam. I’ve taken two classes on Islam at Muskingum, and I’ve read several books and numerous articles dealing with the religion, but seeing how one Muslim lives his life every day is a whole different matter.
Rustam prays five times every day. He knows the Koran well. He doesn’t drink or smoke. He’s not allowed to hug or kiss a girl. One time Rustam told me, “I am human. Of course I want to do these things. But living my life the way that I know is right is the most important thing.”
I know many other Muslims who are not so strict about their lifestyles. I appreciate learning about Islam from someone who is not only a close friend, but is someone who knows what he believes, why he believes it, and lives accordingly.
We have talked about what Christians think of Islam, and what Muslims think of Christianity. Basically, one simply has to decide which teachings to believe. Both sides think the other started out correct, but then went down the wrong path.
I can’t stop thinking about one thing… Both Christianity and Islam cannot be right. If what I’ve been taught my whole life is true, does God not hear Rustam’s prayers? Why would God listen to me, a horrible person, and not Rustam, who is so pure and sincere in his faith? My heart hurts when I think about this, and I have to believe that God does listen.
Rustam prays five times every day. He knows the Koran well. He doesn’t drink or smoke. He’s not allowed to hug or kiss a girl. One time Rustam told me, “I am human. Of course I want to do these things. But living my life the way that I know is right is the most important thing.”
I know many other Muslims who are not so strict about their lifestyles. I appreciate learning about Islam from someone who is not only a close friend, but is someone who knows what he believes, why he believes it, and lives accordingly.
We have talked about what Christians think of Islam, and what Muslims think of Christianity. Basically, one simply has to decide which teachings to believe. Both sides think the other started out correct, but then went down the wrong path.
I can’t stop thinking about one thing… Both Christianity and Islam cannot be right. If what I’ve been taught my whole life is true, does God not hear Rustam’s prayers? Why would God listen to me, a horrible person, and not Rustam, who is so pure and sincere in his faith? My heart hurts when I think about this, and I have to believe that God does listen.
23 September 2009
Aidana
My roommate last time I was in Lanzhou is a girl from Kazakhstan named Aidana. Aidana is studying at another university in northern Lanzhou, so of course we decided to get together.
She surprised me one day by coming to my university in between my classes, and we had lunch together. We were so happy to see each other, and we had so much to catch up on.
I went to her university this past weekend and had a great time. Aidana’s boyfriend is from Korea and studies at her school. Even though I had just met her boyfriend, and Aidana and I haven’t seen each other for over a year, we all laughed and joked around like best friends. I guess we are!
Aidana’s boyfriend told me that Aidana has talked about me every single day for over a year. Once, Aidana was sick and he took care of her. But she cried and told him to go away, and that she wanted me there instead!
I think I will go visit them a lot- probably every weekend. Aidana and I both feel pretty lonely and out-of-place at our universities, and being together again is so great.
She surprised me one day by coming to my university in between my classes, and we had lunch together. We were so happy to see each other, and we had so much to catch up on.
I went to her university this past weekend and had a great time. Aidana’s boyfriend is from Korea and studies at her school. Even though I had just met her boyfriend, and Aidana and I haven’t seen each other for over a year, we all laughed and joked around like best friends. I guess we are!
Aidana’s boyfriend told me that Aidana has talked about me every single day for over a year. Once, Aidana was sick and he took care of her. But she cried and told him to go away, and that she wanted me there instead!
I think I will go visit them a lot- probably every weekend. Aidana and I both feel pretty lonely and out-of-place at our universities, and being together again is so great.
My Uzbek Friends
I met my first real friends here while in the kitchen. Rustam and his sister Shokhina are from Uzbekistan and prefer their country’s food to Chinese food. Rustam and I speak Chinese to each other, and Shokhina and I speak English. To each other, Rustam and Shokhina speak Russian or Uzbek. Each of us acts as translators at some point during every conversation. It’s a pretty good system.
The night we met, Shokhina was cooking soup with lamb, carrots, and rice. We talked for a long time since it took a while for it to cook. They invited me to eat with them, so in Rustam’s room we talked for an hour more.
Since then, we often hang out and go places together. I really enjoy being with them even though the cultural differences are significant. Many American girls would be offended by the way Rustam treats me; He doesn’t want me to walk anywhere alone, I’m not allowed to pay for anything when we’re together, and he often suggests things I should or shouldn’t do based on how life in Uzbekistan is. I remind him that things are different in America, that I am very independent, and that I have been living my life my own way for over 20 years. It’s just too hard for him to accept sometimes, and it’s never a big deal to me, so he usually gets his way.
For example, one time our taxi driver wouldn’t accept a large bill from Rustam. I had smaller change and paid before Rustam could object. Later, Rustam insisted on repaying me in 1 and 0.5 denominations. We argued about it for several minutes, and there was nothing I could do but take it. Another time, I hung out with Rustam and Shokhina after I had taken a shower, and my hair was still damp. Rustam handed me a hairdryer and made me blow dry my hair because he thought I would get sick otherwise.
I’m learning so much about Islam, Central Asia, and Uzbek culture from Shokhina and Rustam. I’ve watched Rustam perform his ritual hand and head cleansing, get out his prayer rug, face west, and spend five minutes praying out loud, standing, kneeling, and bowing. I’ve learned how sacred bread is to them. “You can stand on the Koran to reach bread, but you can’t stand on bread to reach the Koran.” Shokhina is getting married soon, so I’ve also learned about their wedding traditions and family life in Uzbekistan.
In addition, Rutam has started teaching me Russian. Last time I was in Lanzhou, I wish I would have taken more advantage of all the things I can learn from my classmates. So, I’m going to first learn to read Russian, and then learn to speak it. I don’t expect to learn very much since Chinese is difficult enough, but I hope to get a good background in the language.
The night we met, Shokhina was cooking soup with lamb, carrots, and rice. We talked for a long time since it took a while for it to cook. They invited me to eat with them, so in Rustam’s room we talked for an hour more.
Since then, we often hang out and go places together. I really enjoy being with them even though the cultural differences are significant. Many American girls would be offended by the way Rustam treats me; He doesn’t want me to walk anywhere alone, I’m not allowed to pay for anything when we’re together, and he often suggests things I should or shouldn’t do based on how life in Uzbekistan is. I remind him that things are different in America, that I am very independent, and that I have been living my life my own way for over 20 years. It’s just too hard for him to accept sometimes, and it’s never a big deal to me, so he usually gets his way.
For example, one time our taxi driver wouldn’t accept a large bill from Rustam. I had smaller change and paid before Rustam could object. Later, Rustam insisted on repaying me in 1 and 0.5 denominations. We argued about it for several minutes, and there was nothing I could do but take it. Another time, I hung out with Rustam and Shokhina after I had taken a shower, and my hair was still damp. Rustam handed me a hairdryer and made me blow dry my hair because he thought I would get sick otherwise.
I’m learning so much about Islam, Central Asia, and Uzbek culture from Shokhina and Rustam. I’ve watched Rustam perform his ritual hand and head cleansing, get out his prayer rug, face west, and spend five minutes praying out loud, standing, kneeling, and bowing. I’ve learned how sacred bread is to them. “You can stand on the Koran to reach bread, but you can’t stand on bread to reach the Koran.” Shokhina is getting married soon, so I’ve also learned about their wedding traditions and family life in Uzbekistan.
In addition, Rutam has started teaching me Russian. Last time I was in Lanzhou, I wish I would have taken more advantage of all the things I can learn from my classmates. So, I’m going to first learn to read Russian, and then learn to speak it. I don’t expect to learn very much since Chinese is difficult enough, but I hope to get a good background in the language.
17 September 2009
Holding Hands
I was running some errands, walking very quickly down a street near the university. I was about to pass a young Chinese girl when she turned and looked at me. Her face lit up and she said hello. Then she told me how happy she was to meet a foreigner and that she thought we should be friends. We walked and talked for about ten minutes, discovering that we’re both 21 years old and in school. Then, she asked for my phone number. I lied and said I don’t have a phone. In China, hundreds of people will ask for your number, and for obvious reasons, I don’t like to give it to people I don’t know.
But we kept walking and I told her I was looking for a place to buy some cooking utensils. She asked if she could come with me. The girl seemed really genuine and sincere, and I didn’t mind having her along so I said it was fine. We were near a huge market that was extremely crowded. In China, friends hold hands all the time, especially in crowded places. It’s commonplace, and even guys hold each others’ hands, but it’s something I’m not used to. So, this girl – naturally – grabbed my hand. We were holding hands the entire half-hour or so we were at the market. I felt really weird about it because I don’t know her.
While I was making a purchase, I received a text message from a fellow international student. Luckily, the girl didn’t hear the alert tone! Soon after, we went our separate ways. She wrote down her phone number for me, though. And I think I will call her soon. (“Hi! I finally got a phone!”) You can never have too many Chinese friends, right?
But we kept walking and I told her I was looking for a place to buy some cooking utensils. She asked if she could come with me. The girl seemed really genuine and sincere, and I didn’t mind having her along so I said it was fine. We were near a huge market that was extremely crowded. In China, friends hold hands all the time, especially in crowded places. It’s commonplace, and even guys hold each others’ hands, but it’s something I’m not used to. So, this girl – naturally – grabbed my hand. We were holding hands the entire half-hour or so we were at the market. I felt really weird about it because I don’t know her.
While I was making a purchase, I received a text message from a fellow international student. Luckily, the girl didn’t hear the alert tone! Soon after, we went our separate ways. She wrote down her phone number for me, though. And I think I will call her soon. (“Hi! I finally got a phone!”) You can never have too many Chinese friends, right?
Blue Skies
I used to think that seeing a blue sky every once in a while was an inalienable right of every human being on the planet. Blue skies, cumulous clouds, seeing the stars at night… what luxuries!
It’s always gray outside. And it’s hard for me to decide if it’s completely overcast, or if I just can’t distinguish the clouds from the hazy, polluted sky.
The dust and dirt don’t help the city’s complexion, either.
My friend Tracy told me that when she first got to Lanzhou in 2007, she took lots of pictures of the city and emailed them to her family. Later, Tracy realized her camera was on the black and white setting. She emailed her family back saying, “The pictures are all in black and white, but it’s actually not that different in real life.” So true!
It’s always gray outside. And it’s hard for me to decide if it’s completely overcast, or if I just can’t distinguish the clouds from the hazy, polluted sky.
The dust and dirt don’t help the city’s complexion, either.
My friend Tracy told me that when she first got to Lanzhou in 2007, she took lots of pictures of the city and emailed them to her family. Later, Tracy realized her camera was on the black and white setting. She emailed her family back saying, “The pictures are all in black and white, but it’s actually not that different in real life.” So true!
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