Showing posts with label Lanzhou. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lanzhou. Show all posts

05 June 2011

Pegged as an Outsider

In reference to my previous post about wearing hijab to the mosque, I found myself on the opposite side of a situation that I initiate all the time – It’s me who is usually the one who awkwardly asks people where they’re from.

Example: At the Asian festival in Columbus, I spoke with a woman at a stall selling traditional Chinese art. I could tell by her accent that she was probably from Beijing, or at least northern China. I told her I was interested in the Chinese paper cuttings, and that I had lived in Lanzhou, Gansu. We chatted about western China for a while, and then that dreaded moment came.

“Where are you from?”

“Michigan.”

“Welcome to Ohio!” I said, and left it at that.

I find myself in this situation all the time, and I know that it’s me who is at fault. I’m genuinely curious about other languages and cultures - I’m not judging people for having an accent or different customs. But citizenship, nationality, and identity are touchy subjects for most people.

Another example: I met a woman from Uzbekistan a few weeks ago. When I first asked where she was from, her answer was "Well, I was born in Asia, then my family moved to Russia, and now I live in Cincinnati." We had been talking for about 10 minutes when I realized she must be from Kyrgyzstan or Uzbekistan, so I asked, "Which Asian country were you born in?" She was so surprised that I was familiar with her country!

So my turn came at Masjid Noor, a mosque in Dublin. I was washing my hands in the bathroom when a teenager smiled at me in the mirror. I smiled back and said hi.

“Where are you from?” she asked me.

I was completely caught off guard, not only by the words of her question, but by her unspoken assumption that I was different.

“I’m from Columbus.”

“Oh, cool. Did you come with someone today?”

“Yeah, I came with my friend. We work together.”

Being on the other side helps me to understand better. It made wonder what reasons the girl had for (correctly) guessing that I didn’t quite belong. But at the same time, I recognized her interest in me and my story for how I ended up at the conference at Masjid Noor. And then she hit me with this one:

“You look really beautiful in hijab.”

17 June 2010

An Uzbek's View on Kyrgyz Violence

I emailed my Uzbek friend Rustam, who is living in Lanzhou, to check up on my Kyrgyz friends in light of the violence in the south of their country. I have many Kyrgyz friends who I met through Lanzhou University, some of whom are still in Lanzhou and some who have gone home. One Kyrgyz couple who I was especially good friends with is in a unique situation: the husband is still in Lanzhou while his wife went back home to her family to give birth to their child. Naturally, I have been worried about these friends and their families. And, thankfully, I heard back that everyone is safe and well.

While my main purpose was to ask about the well-being of my friends, I also asked Rustam about his take on the violence and about why he thinks the attacks are occurring. I told him some reasons I have heard in the international media, including economic problems being blamed on the Uzbeks, the corrupt government egging on the violence, the fear of Uzbekistan encroaching on Kyrgyzstan, and gang violence based on ethnic hatred. Here is part of his email (awkwardly translated from Chinese):

"Caitlin, I think that all the reasons you listed are in fact causes of the conflict [economy, corrupt government, fear of Uzbekistan encroaching on Kyrgyzstan, and gangs] except for the one about Uzbekistan wanting Kyrgyzstan's land. Over there in Kyrgyzstan, I think there is one significant force between the Uzbeks and Kyrgyz that is provoking the violence: From what the Kyrgyz are saying, the Uzbeks are being beaten to death and a ton of women are being raped. The Uzbeks are verifying all of this. There is also another large factor, and that is that the people who are dying are innocent. It's just like a huge, awful game, and in this game the ones who suffer are the pawns, just like in chess."

The image of a game of chess is powerful. The pawns, the little innocent guys, are being slaughtered for the sake of the major players like the knights, rooks, kings, and queens, who perhaps represent the government, and are just out to win their battles at others' expense. We can only hope for a quick checkmate.

14 June 2010

Thoughts on Kyrgyz Violence

The violence in Kyrgyzstan is depressing, discouraging, and worrisome to me. I am constantly checking the news and searching for more pictures and video. It just hurts me so much to think about my Central Asian friends and their families, their languages and cultures and customs and rituals... to think about them in this context of violence.

The countries of Central Asia each have their own distinct culture, history, and language. After gaining independence from the Soviet Union around 1990, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, and Tajikistan have had minor clashes. Ethnic problems are at the top of the list since people of each country's ethnic group live in the other countries- like the ethnic Uzbeks living in Kyrgyzstan who are being killed every day. With no explanation. Sure, Uzbekistan is a double-landlocked country with an overflowing population, but it's implausible for them to want to or try to take over Kyrgyzstan. I feel like these countries should be in this together. After suffering under the Soviets, they all became free and in control of their own livelihoods. They should be celebrating.

I clearly remember, right after the international festival at Lanzhou University last fall, my friends told me about when they were young children and their families were poor. Their parents worked tirelessly, and it was for nothing (well, it was for Russia). After they became free, life was so much better and happier. The countries celebrated their uniqueness and nationalism was encouraged.

But maybe it is backfiring now, all that nationalism. It reminds me of my post from December of 2009 about the fight in my dorm building. There is such a fine line there between respect and pride.

And, to conclude this jumbled post, on days like today I take a step back and look at how much my life has changed. I used to get upset and riled up about completely normal things. And now my heart pounds as I read news about Kyrgyzstan, and I have no one to discuss it with. I cry when I hear about Uzbeks' houses being burnt and women and children fleeing to the border, and there is no one there to share the pain I feel. Wouldn't my life be a lot simpler if I had never gone to China and met wonderful people who taught me about all these cultures? It's times like these that for fleeting moments I wish I was "normal" and didn't have these painful burdens from what I have learned and grown to care about. I got into a debate in class once about learning- that it's not always a good thing, that learning can be detrimental. My classmates thought I was off my rocker, and, you know what, I am.

Man sizni sevaman.

03 June 2010

The Smell of Burning Coal

Check out this video about "the dirtiest city in the world." The images in the video from Linfen, China are so familiar to me and remind me most of my two trips to Fugu, China to stay with a friend and her family.

The gray skies, the trash everywhere, the cars... what sticks with me most, though, is the smell of burning coal. As I watched that video sitting in my living room, I had one of those strange experiences where I smelled burning coal as if I were in my friend's home in Fugu by their furnace. And that isn't the first time that has happened to me. When I first returned home from China, sometimes I would wake up in my dorm room and completely forget where I was. And then I would smell burning coal. I wasn't actually smelling it, of course, but I was remembering the entire experience of waking up in a strange world- one of pollution and gray skies and trash and cars- and smelling burning coal.

And yet, the people of Linfen- and Fugu and Lanzhou and the thousands of other polluted cities in China and around the world, still lead happy and normal lives.

10 May 2010

Yellow River Journalism

As part of my senior seminar project about views on journalism in Lanzhou, China, I interviewed journalism professors and students at Lanzhou University while I studied abroad there learning Chinese, and I made this documentary video to share their views with the world (or at least to whomever happens to watch this).

This is Yellow River Journalism: A Quest for Truth in Lanzhou, China.

Enjoy!

09 December 2009

12 Degrees and Smoky

On my Google homepage, I have a weather gadget that tells me the current weather conditions in Lanzhou, as well as the three-day forecast. (I also have a gadget to convert Fahrenheit and Celsius. Much easier than all that 9/5 then adding 32 stuff.)

Sometimes the weather gadget tells me it’s “cloudy” or “overcast,” but more often than not it says “smoke.” That’s right, smoke.

I think this must mean that the air is so polluted that the instruments read it as the air being like smoke. Is that possible?

14 November 2009

H1N1, Part II


I already mentioned how H1N1 has been a big deal here, and how my temperature is checked by my dorm staff. Well, a few weeks ago, the H1N1 vaccine was made available to all university students.

I happened to be taking a nap when my friend frantically called me and said we had to go to the university hospital immediately to get vaccines. I stumbled out of bed and was not prepared for the chaos ensuing at the hospital. Hundreds of students were pushing and shoving, waiting to fill out some papers and get their vaccines. Nurses were injecting people as fast as they could.

Since my friend and I are foreigners, we always get special treatment (not fair, but, hey, I’ll take it!). We went to the front of the “line” and tried to fill out the papers. We only wrote our first names and the name of our dorm; the other blanks were irrelevant since we are not Chinese.

Then we got our vaccines, and the nurses said not to shower for three days. My only guess is that the hospital doesn’t want to be responsible for thousands of students with infections from the unclean water…



That night I started feeling sick. For three days all I did was sleep. On the third morning, I went to the hospital, but they just gave me some cold medicine. That night my fever was ridiculously high, so I went back to the hospital. They tried to take blood, but because I had only been sleeping for the past few days, they could not get any blood from the vein in my arm. This was not a fun process of being poked, prodded, and having to squeeze my fist, move my arm, etc. Finally they were able to get a small amount of blood, just enough to run some tests.

I ended up getting some more shots. After that I was fine except for being tired. I stayed home from class for four more days to rest. I’m completely fine now. I’m pretty sure I was sick because I reacted to the H1N1 vaccine; it was the poor-quality Chinese one, not the standard western one. Once again, great job, China!

I’m not sure if this counts as having H1N1… I think it does, and when I am old, I will tell my children that I went to China, got H1N1 during the 2009 pandemic, and survived.

23 September 2009

Aidana

My roommate last time I was in Lanzhou is a girl from Kazakhstan named Aidana. Aidana is studying at another university in northern Lanzhou, so of course we decided to get together.

She surprised me one day by coming to my university in between my classes, and we had lunch together. We were so happy to see each other, and we had so much to catch up on.

I went to her university this past weekend and had a great time. Aidana’s boyfriend is from Korea and studies at her school. Even though I had just met her boyfriend, and Aidana and I haven’t seen each other for over a year, we all laughed and joked around like best friends. I guess we are!

Aidana’s boyfriend told me that Aidana has talked about me every single day for over a year. Once, Aidana was sick and he took care of her. But she cried and told him to go away, and that she wanted me there instead!

I think I will go visit them a lot- probably every weekend. Aidana and I both feel pretty lonely and out-of-place at our universities, and being together again is so great.

My Uzbek Friends

I met my first real friends here while in the kitchen. Rustam and his sister Shokhina are from Uzbekistan and prefer their country’s food to Chinese food. Rustam and I speak Chinese to each other, and Shokhina and I speak English. To each other, Rustam and Shokhina speak Russian or Uzbek. Each of us acts as translators at some point during every conversation. It’s a pretty good system.

The night we met, Shokhina was cooking soup with lamb, carrots, and rice. We talked for a long time since it took a while for it to cook. They invited me to eat with them, so in Rustam’s room we talked for an hour more.

Since then, we often hang out and go places together. I really enjoy being with them even though the cultural differences are significant. Many American girls would be offended by the way Rustam treats me; He doesn’t want me to walk anywhere alone, I’m not allowed to pay for anything when we’re together, and he often suggests things I should or shouldn’t do based on how life in Uzbekistan is. I remind him that things are different in America, that I am very independent, and that I have been living my life my own way for over 20 years. It’s just too hard for him to accept sometimes, and it’s never a big deal to me, so he usually gets his way.

For example, one time our taxi driver wouldn’t accept a large bill from Rustam. I had smaller change and paid before Rustam could object. Later, Rustam insisted on repaying me in 1 and 0.5 denominations. We argued about it for several minutes, and there was nothing I could do but take it. Another time, I hung out with Rustam and Shokhina after I had taken a shower, and my hair was still damp. Rustam handed me a hairdryer and made me blow dry my hair because he thought I would get sick otherwise.

I’m learning so much about Islam, Central Asia, and Uzbek culture from Shokhina and Rustam. I’ve watched Rustam perform his ritual hand and head cleansing, get out his prayer rug, face west, and spend five minutes praying out loud, standing, kneeling, and bowing. I’ve learned how sacred bread is to them. “You can stand on the Koran to reach bread, but you can’t stand on bread to reach the Koran.” Shokhina is getting married soon, so I’ve also learned about their wedding traditions and family life in Uzbekistan.

In addition, Rutam has started teaching me Russian. Last time I was in Lanzhou, I wish I would have taken more advantage of all the things I can learn from my classmates. So, I’m going to first learn to read Russian, and then learn to speak it. I don’t expect to learn very much since Chinese is difficult enough, but I hope to get a good background in the language.

17 September 2009

Holding Hands

I was running some errands, walking very quickly down a street near the university. I was about to pass a young Chinese girl when she turned and looked at me. Her face lit up and she said hello. Then she told me how happy she was to meet a foreigner and that she thought we should be friends. We walked and talked for about ten minutes, discovering that we’re both 21 years old and in school. Then, she asked for my phone number. I lied and said I don’t have a phone. In China, hundreds of people will ask for your number, and for obvious reasons, I don’t like to give it to people I don’t know.

But we kept walking and I told her I was looking for a place to buy some cooking utensils. She asked if she could come with me. The girl seemed really genuine and sincere, and I didn’t mind having her along so I said it was fine. We were near a huge market that was extremely crowded. In China, friends hold hands all the time, especially in crowded places. It’s commonplace, and even guys hold each others’ hands, but it’s something I’m not used to. So, this girl – naturally – grabbed my hand. We were holding hands the entire half-hour or so we were at the market. I felt really weird about it because I don’t know her.

While I was making a purchase, I received a text message from a fellow international student. Luckily, the girl didn’t hear the alert tone! Soon after, we went our separate ways. She wrote down her phone number for me, though. And I think I will call her soon. (“Hi! I finally got a phone!”) You can never have too many Chinese friends, right?

Blue Skies

I used to think that seeing a blue sky every once in a while was an inalienable right of every human being on the planet. Blue skies, cumulous clouds, seeing the stars at night… what luxuries!

It’s always gray outside. And it’s hard for me to decide if it’s completely overcast, or if I just can’t distinguish the clouds from the hazy, polluted sky.

The dust and dirt don’t help the city’s complexion, either.

My friend Tracy told me that when she first got to Lanzhou in 2007, she took lots of pictures of the city and emailed them to her family. Later, Tracy realized her camera was on the black and white setting. She emailed her family back saying, “The pictures are all in black and white, but it’s actually not that different in real life.” So true!

Classes

When I got to the university, I took a Chinese language placement exam. I thought it was pretty difficult, and I expected to test into the beginning-level second-semester course. I guess I tested better than I thought, because I’m in the third-semester course. This course has listening, speaking, reading, and comprehensive Chinese classes. I’m also taking a class to prepare for the HSK, which is the Chinese level examination. I will take the HSK in November. Additionally, I am taking a physical education class called tai ji chuan. This is similar to tai chi, but not the same.

My class has about 15 students, and 10 are from Kazakhstan. A plurality of the international students, however, are from Uzbekistan. There aren’t any other Americans, but an English guy named Andy is in my class – we’ve been trying to keep each other sane through this first week of classes, which is hard. We haven’t really hung out, but we’re both really glad that there’s someone else in Lanzhou that we can relate to.

Anyway, my classes are difficult. Every week I am responsible for over 100 new characters, as well as memorizing grammatical structures. I have lots of reading and lots of homework. The hardest part of my classes, however, isn’t the actual material. It’s understanding what my teachers are saying! They speak quickly and, of course, only use Chinese.

I think I’ll do fine in the classes as long as I study every day. In the U.S. (I hope none of my professors are reading this!) I never study. Maybe possibly just before a test, and only a little before final exams. In China, I have class from 8:30 – 12:30 and sometimes again from 2:30 – 4:00. And I spend the entire afternoon and evening studying. Hopefully as my skills improve this semester, I can cut the studying down to 1 or 2 hours per night, but right now it’s kind of ridiculous.

AND one of my teachers rescheduled a class for this Friday night from 7-9 because she can’t make our regular class time. It’s not optional, especially for me since I’m an exchange student. Great.

Arrival in Lanzhou

I’m here safely!

My flights went well, and I got to Lanzhou on Wednesday night and went straight to the university. It was a rough introduction to campus because they weren’t exactly ready for me to come. I stayed in a random room with some girls from Uzbekistan just for that night. The next day I went to the International Office to get everything settled. I wouldn’t have been able to do it if my Chinese friend Lili hadn’t come to my rescue. Lili kept me from getting stressed out, interpreted complicated dialogue, and let me use her internet to call my family over Skype.

This semester, there are tons of international students. So many that two international student housing buildings are completely full! Consequently, I am in a single room in Zhuan Jia Lou, where I stayed last time I was here. This year, Zhuan Jia Lou is all male housing… but it’s hotel-style, so it doesn’t matter that I’m there. The female housing is full, and it doesn’t have a kitchen or laundry room. I am certainly living the good life.

As nice as a single room is, I wish I had a roommate. I’m in a room on the top floor of the building, all the way at the end of the hall. I feel isolated. I know I’ll meet people, but it’s so much easier when you live with someone.

I feel really comfortable and at home here in Lanzhou and at Lanzhou University because I know my way around. It’s fun to help out the other international students, especially those who don’t speak Chinese (yet!).

31 August 2009

Heading Back

I'll be back in Lanzhou on Wednesday. I'm excited for the semester, and planning has been much more low-key since I know more of what to expect this time around.

I already know how different this coming semester is going to be compared with the Spring 2008 semester I spent in Lanzhou. First of all, I know exactly what to pack (and what not to pack!). The first item on my packing list this summer was instant coffee! The Chinese are, not surprisingly, big tea drinkers. They have instant coffee, but it's already sweetened and has whitener in it. I plan on drinking my fair share of tea, but some mornings I'm sure I'll just want my coffee! I'm also taking some boxes of macaroni, a jar of nutella, and a box of CoCo Wheats. The macaroni and nutella are more so I can share them with other international students, not because I will miss them. The CoCo Wheats are because it's an easy breakfast that I enjoy, especially on cold mornings!

I also think I better planned out the clothing I'm taking. Layering is so important, so I packed colors that go together and items I can wear on top of one another. For anyone planning on traveling, I can't stress the importance of layering!

Another difference I am expecting is in the international students I will be studying with. Sometimes I have an irrational fear that my classmates won't be as cool as last time. What if they're all jerks and we don't get along? On one hand, I know that I can never make friendships exactly like the ones I formed with Dustin, Ellen, Tracy, Travis, and all the other good friends I made last time. But that's the nature of friendship. This semester, I know I will make strong, lasting friendships with new people. Of course it won't be the same, but it will be just as great. By the way, my roommate from before, Aidana, will be in Lanzhou at the same time as me. She's studying at a different university, but she's only a bus ride away! And, my Chinese friends Lili and Ming will be in Lanzhou with me, too. These two were exchange students to Muskingum this past year.

I also know I won't travel quite as much as I did last semester in China. One reason is that I have to be back at Muskingum in January for the spring semester, so I don't have the luxury of traveling for a month after my classes. Since I will be limited to weekends and short breaks, I will have to take trips to nearby cities.

Lastly, because I'm fairly familiar with the city of Lanzhou, I will be spending less time learning the city and walking around taking it all in. Instead, when I go out, I will enjoy visiting the places I remember and trying to find new things to do.

I am really looking forward to my semester in Lanzhou. The city feels a lot like home to me.

28 March 2009

Planning It Out

While I studied abroad at Lanzhou University and traveled around China immediately following my semester there, I hated to plan. I was by myself and could do what I wanted, when I wanted.

When plans are made, they often fail, so why make them???

Well, when I’m in Germany, I’ll be with my friend Wade for most of the two weeks. This means I must plan. Wade is the most understanding, patient, and easy-going person I know, but I believe that no one can put up with my capriciousness.

So I’m pulling out some tomes on travel in Germany. You know, light reading for the weekend.

26 March 2009

Hello... Germany?

Yes, I’m going to be going to Germany in May. Once again traveling alone. For the most part, anyway. I’m flying into Munich and spending a few days there, then meeting up with my friend Wade, who is also a Muskie.

Don’t worry; I’m not running away again. Not yet, at least. I won’t officially run away until I leave for China this fall.

Don’t be confused. Here’s the break-down: I finish the current spring semester at Muskingum. I go to Germany for two weeks. I return to Ohio for the summer. I leave for Lanzhou, China in late August. I spend the fall semester studying once again in Lanzhou. I will return in January of 2010, in time to finish up my journalism degree at Muskingum. Whew!

04 July 2008

Independence Day

My plans with Dustin fell through. We were stopped by the police from going to our intended destination and had to return to Lanzhou.

It's Independence Day so I'm exercising my independence by traveling to Chengdu this afternoon.

Goodbye Lanzhou, goodbye friends, goodbye studying and classes... I'm on my own.

01 July 2008

Almost a Plan

Here’s the closest thing to a plan that I have: I leave Lanzhou on Thursday with my friend Dustin. We’re not sure yet where we’re going. Dustin is meeting his brother back in Lanzhou after that, so from wherever we go, I’m going to travel by myself.

I don’t know where exactly, but I’ll go south first (Chengdu? Kunming?), then head east (Guangzhou?) and work my way up the coast. I’m avoiding Beijing, but will end up there in August. Dustin and another American friend, Ellen, are flying out of Beijing within a few days of when I do, so we’re planning to meet up and see each other off.

I know you’re probably thinking it’s not a good idea for me to travel alone, but I want to and I feel safe. Plus, I know I won’t be alone. Every foreign student in China will be traveling like me, so I’ll meet other westerners in the hostels, on the trains, and in the cities. And, wherever I go, I never have any problem meeting Chinese students.

Also, I’m going to keep in close contact with my Chinese friends. I hope to meet up with several of them, and their families all want me to stay with them for a few days.

I’m so excited to travel…

Goodbye, Aidana




My roommate Aidana and I know that we have to say goodbye soon. After exams this week I’m leaving Lanzhou to travel, and Aidana is going back to Kazakhstan.

It always takes me a while to open up to people. I think of myself as outgoing and extroverted, but for me to share with others about my personal life is a different matter. I like my space and I make sure I have it. I feel like I’ve finally opened up to Aidana, though, and now I have to leave.

This past month we’ve had more fun than ever. We’ve had crazy dance parties in our room, we took funny pictures, we went shopping and out to eat together, and sometimes we would just talk.

Aidana is more than just my roommate; she’s my close friend.




“Things are changing/ It seems strange and I need to figure this out/ Yesterday we were laughing/ Today I’m left here asking/ ‘Where has all the time gone now?’/ I’m left alone somehow/ Growing up and getting older/ I don’t want to believe it’s over/ Don’t say goodbye/ ‘Cause I don’t want to hear those words tonight/ Maybe it’s not the end for you and I/ And although we knew this time would come for me and you/ Don’t say anything tonight if you’re going to say goodbye/ I wish we could be laughing/ Instead I’m standing here asking/ ‘Do we have to end this now?/ Can we make it last somehow?’/ We both know what we gotta say/ Not today/ ‘Cause I don’t want to leave this way/ And if it’s over/ It hurts but I’m giving you my word:/ I hope that you’re always happy like we were/ Happy like we were...”

~Skillet, Say Goodbye

29 June 2008

The Roommate Dialect

My roommate Aidana and I always do our best to speak in Chinese- it's easier since she speaks Russian and I speak English. Aidana is knows much more Chinese than I do, but is just half a level ahead of me in the Chinese courses here at Lanzhou University, so there are tons of words that we don't know how to say. Chinese grammar is simple, but I'm sure we make many mistakes.

Also, we have this bad habit of not looking up how to say the names of objects. Instead, we use an adjective and then the Chinese word for "thing." Sometimes we add hand motions. At one point we didn't know the word for hairdryer, so we said (translated) "hair-dry-thing." The actual word for hairdryer translates to "blow-wind-machine," and I think our description is much better. The thing is, though, if we used our made-up word for hairdryer in a store, they would think for a second and then point us to the hairdryers, so I think it works just fine.

Maybe it's not really Chinese, but our own dialect. Our "Roommate Dialect" has English and Russian accents, odd grammar, and objects usually don't have actual names.