I spend an excessive amount of time on trains. It’s getting ridiculous. I’ve tried to break up my traveling, going from nearby city to nearby city so that I’m not on a train for more than 24 hours at a time.
When I have a long distance to cover overnight, I try to get a sleeper car, but sometimes there aren’t any. Surprisingly, spending the night on a hard seat surrounded by the 134 other people in the car isn’t quite as bad as expected. Maybe I’m just an optimist.
Ok, it’s pretty bad, but not unbearable. For some unknown reason (er… check out one of my previous posts called “Coal”) Chinese people won’t open the windows on the trains. So not only does it get a little toasty, the smell is overwhelming. And the bathroom on the train doesn’t make things smell any better, either.
The worst part about trains, other than grime and foul odors, is getting bored. I try to alternate between reading, listening to music, writing, talking to children, and avoiding talking to creepy old men. Chinese children are great to talk to. And they’re so cute. The creepy old men are just creepy and old and have never seen a foreigner before so they ask me strange questions. Real examples:
“What language is spoken in America?” I just thought everyone knew.
“Are there fields in America?” How do you think the population gets fed?
“At what age do girls get married in America?” Everyone gets married at exactly the same age… not.
But trains are part of what I love so much about China. The Chinese rail system really brings out the true nature and character of the people.
On the train, strangers talk and laugh together. They share their food and trade seats so families can sit together.
But trains definitely bring out the bad side as well. Many Chinese people don’t understand the concept of waiting in line. I always get pushed and shoved and stepped on. I’ve been knocked over on several occasions. And no one apologizes. This is all just waiting for the train to arrive. Actually getting on the train can be worse.
On my way from Hohhot to Baotou, the aisles were filled with people who didn’t have seats. At every stop, more people would get on than would get off. Upon arriving at Baotou, I grabbed my bag and tried to get off the train. But twenty or more people were trying to get on. And it was like a mosh pit.
I just started pushing people and asking them to let me off. Then the train attendants tried to help me get off by pushing other people and then by pulling me. Nothing worked. Finally, I just started yelling, “Let me get off the train! You’re all crazy!” I’m not sure if the people getting on were alarmed simply by a foreign girl calling them insane, or if they were shocked that I was speaking Chinese. There was a lot of exclaiming going on.
And they thought I was Russian. Do Russians yell a lot?
Showing posts with label trains. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trains. Show all posts
03 August 2008
Jeans
Do you have something that you can’t let go of and you don’t quite know why?
That sounds like a deep, philosophical question, but I’m just referring to my jeans.
I’m trying to travel as light as I can. I keep throwing things away. Last week I left behind my sweat shirt. It’s summer, even though it gets a little chilly up north. I’m doing fine with just three shirts to wear. Tomorrow it will be two. Socks and underwear? They’re washable, so why need so many?
I don’t need my jeans. It’s really hot, so I’m wearing shorts. But I can’t throw out my jeans.
They even have holes in them. One big hole in the crotch and two small holes by the butt pockets. The legs are frayed and gross.
But they have traveled with me around China for six months and I love them. They are coming back to America with me, no matter how much room they take up in my bag (a lot).
It’s kind of like how I’m possessive of my train tickets. When I got here, I thought it would be cool to keep all of my train tickets. I was thinking, “All four of them.” But now that I have almost 20, what’s the point? One time I was getting off the train and the attendant took my ticket. It upset me. I have so many, but I can’t throw them away. I just can’t. They took me all the places that I’ve been to with my jeans.
That sounds like a deep, philosophical question, but I’m just referring to my jeans.
I’m trying to travel as light as I can. I keep throwing things away. Last week I left behind my sweat shirt. It’s summer, even though it gets a little chilly up north. I’m doing fine with just three shirts to wear. Tomorrow it will be two. Socks and underwear? They’re washable, so why need so many?
I don’t need my jeans. It’s really hot, so I’m wearing shorts. But I can’t throw out my jeans.
They even have holes in them. One big hole in the crotch and two small holes by the butt pockets. The legs are frayed and gross.
But they have traveled with me around China for six months and I love them. They are coming back to America with me, no matter how much room they take up in my bag (a lot).
It’s kind of like how I’m possessive of my train tickets. When I got here, I thought it would be cool to keep all of my train tickets. I was thinking, “All four of them.” But now that I have almost 20, what’s the point? One time I was getting off the train and the attendant took my ticket. It upset me. I have so many, but I can’t throw them away. I just can’t. They took me all the places that I’ve been to with my jeans.
Hotels
I arrived in Tongliao by train at 4:30 a.m. on July 31st. I found a run-of-the-mill, cheap hotel near the train station and immediately took a nap in my room. I woke up, did some laundry in the sink of the community bathroom, checked to see if there was a shower (none), hung up my clothes to dry in my room, and went out to discover what Tongliao was all about.
I came back to my room in the afternoon to grab a few things. I checked my drying clothes, and that’s when I noticed the cockroaches coming out from the door frame.
Alarming? Not to me anymore. I’m used to this. It’s just a normal Chinese budget hotel.
I came back to my room at night. As I was brushing my teeth, several people were trying to wash large planks of some sort in the sink next to mine. They stared at me because I’m a foreigner, but they were the ones washing two-by-fours in a little sink, not me.
Luckily, it was hot in my room so I didn’t have to use the unwashed comforter provided for me. In fact, I even wanted the fan blowing on me (there was a fan!!!). After I got in bed, I realized there was no light switch in the room.
It was in the hallway.
I woke up in the middle of the night. Half a minute later, I heard several loud Chinese men yelling in the hall. And I noticed my fan was not working. The power had gone out.
In the morning, I used the light of my cell phone to make my way to my door. Out in the hallway, I hit the light switch. I had forgotten about there being no electricity.
So, I used my cell phone to get ready and to pack up my bag. I took a train to Shenyang and arrived that afternoon. I splurged and spent Y40 on a hotel with a shower. A community shower. But it was worth it.
I came back to my room in the afternoon to grab a few things. I checked my drying clothes, and that’s when I noticed the cockroaches coming out from the door frame.
Alarming? Not to me anymore. I’m used to this. It’s just a normal Chinese budget hotel.
I came back to my room at night. As I was brushing my teeth, several people were trying to wash large planks of some sort in the sink next to mine. They stared at me because I’m a foreigner, but they were the ones washing two-by-fours in a little sink, not me.
Luckily, it was hot in my room so I didn’t have to use the unwashed comforter provided for me. In fact, I even wanted the fan blowing on me (there was a fan!!!). After I got in bed, I realized there was no light switch in the room.
It was in the hallway.
I woke up in the middle of the night. Half a minute later, I heard several loud Chinese men yelling in the hall. And I noticed my fan was not working. The power had gone out.
In the morning, I used the light of my cell phone to make my way to my door. Out in the hallway, I hit the light switch. I had forgotten about there being no electricity.
So, I used my cell phone to get ready and to pack up my bag. I took a train to Shenyang and arrived that afternoon. I splurged and spent Y40 on a hotel with a shower. A community shower. But it was worth it.
31 July 2008
Coal
On my way from Taiyuan to Datong, my seat on the train was by the window. It's hot on trains and there are so many people, so I opened the window wide and stuck my head out the whole five hours. The scenery was great, and it felt like the other 134 people in my car weren't even there.
When the train was close to Datong, I went to the bathroom and looked in the mirror. My entire face was black from coal. You can imagine how dirty my clothes were. I tried to wash my face in the little sink on the train, but I think I just spread the coal around some more. There was really nothing I could do.
I talked to my mom on the phone later that night and I told her what happened. I said, "But I took a shower and washed my clothes, so it's ok."
And she said, "But what about your lungs, which you can't wash?"
Oh snap. Thank you, China.
When the train was close to Datong, I went to the bathroom and looked in the mirror. My entire face was black from coal. You can imagine how dirty my clothes were. I tried to wash my face in the little sink on the train, but I think I just spread the coal around some more. There was really nothing I could do.
I talked to my mom on the phone later that night and I told her what happened. I said, "But I took a shower and washed my clothes, so it's ok."
And she said, "But what about your lungs, which you can't wash?"
Oh snap. Thank you, China.
19 July 2008
At Bei's House
Right now I am in Fugu, Shaanxi, China at the home of my friend Bei. In just a few days, I hope to travel to Yulin, just south of Fugu, and see a few things there. Yulin has some unreconstructed sections of the Great Wall as well as some Buddhist caves. From Yulin I want to take a train back to Xi'an so that I can take a train to my friend Lei's hometown.
Fugu is not quite as I remembered it from when I came in February. The local government has been working hard to improve the conditions here. Fugu has new parks along the Yellow River, new apartment buildings, plans to build a bridge, and the city seems a little cleaner.
It is great to be with Bei's family again. They are so kind to me. The last time I was here, I of course could not speak any Chinese. But even though I can now, they won't let me speak it. I understand when her mother says to Bei, "Tell Caiti in English that..." and Bei tells me in English. It's slightly frustrating. Bei's family does speak a local dialect, but it is similar enough to standard speech for me to understand.
When I leave Bei's home, I hope it's not the last time I see her and her family.
Fugu is not quite as I remembered it from when I came in February. The local government has been working hard to improve the conditions here. Fugu has new parks along the Yellow River, new apartment buildings, plans to build a bridge, and the city seems a little cleaner.
It is great to be with Bei's family again. They are so kind to me. The last time I was here, I of course could not speak any Chinese. But even though I can now, they won't let me speak it. I understand when her mother says to Bei, "Tell Caiti in English that..." and Bei tells me in English. It's slightly frustrating. Bei's family does speak a local dialect, but it is similar enough to standard speech for me to understand.
When I leave Bei's home, I hope it's not the last time I see her and her family.
16 July 2008
A Whole New World
I couldn't get train tickets from Chengdu to Kunming like I had wanted. I contacted some of my Chinese friends and was invited to return to my friend Bei's home, so my traveling is looking a lot different than it did a few days ago.
I flew from Chengdu to Xi'an on Sunday. Flying in China, for me, is not preferable. Because China is so diverse, it is shocking to step off an airplane into what seems like another world. By train, I can watch the countryside change and I have a day or two to get used to the differences in the regions.
In fact, staying in Chengdu made me truly realize how diverse China is. Some example are the food, the spoken language, and the habits and customs of the people. When I first came to China, I liked the food, but it was so different that I didn't want to eat much. When I arrived in Sichuan, it was the same. The food is so different from the Lanzhou food I am used to that I didn't have much of an appetite for the first few days, even though the food was delicious. The spoken language in Chengdu was difficult to get used to as well. For instance, the "sh" sound is pronounced more like a simple "s" which caused much confusion for me. And, in Chengdu, the people are more relaxed and laid back. They are more wealthy than in Lanzhou, their city is more western, and they are more concerned with safety and sanitation. The differences between the provinces are enormous, and traveling is very eye-opening and educating.
As for Xi'An, I not only have been here before, but it is fairly similar to Lanzhou. It feels more like home! Going to Bei's home will be like home as well; when I first came to China, I stayed with Bei and her familiy. At that time, I was unable to verbally communicate with them. Now that I can speak Chinese, I will be able to truly express to them how grateful I am for their kindness to me.
I flew from Chengdu to Xi'an on Sunday. Flying in China, for me, is not preferable. Because China is so diverse, it is shocking to step off an airplane into what seems like another world. By train, I can watch the countryside change and I have a day or two to get used to the differences in the regions.
In fact, staying in Chengdu made me truly realize how diverse China is. Some example are the food, the spoken language, and the habits and customs of the people. When I first came to China, I liked the food, but it was so different that I didn't want to eat much. When I arrived in Sichuan, it was the same. The food is so different from the Lanzhou food I am used to that I didn't have much of an appetite for the first few days, even though the food was delicious. The spoken language in Chengdu was difficult to get used to as well. For instance, the "sh" sound is pronounced more like a simple "s" which caused much confusion for me. And, in Chengdu, the people are more relaxed and laid back. They are more wealthy than in Lanzhou, their city is more western, and they are more concerned with safety and sanitation. The differences between the provinces are enormous, and traveling is very eye-opening and educating.
As for Xi'An, I not only have been here before, but it is fairly similar to Lanzhou. It feels more like home! Going to Bei's home will be like home as well; when I first came to China, I stayed with Bei and her familiy. At that time, I was unable to verbally communicate with them. Now that I can speak Chinese, I will be able to truly express to them how grateful I am for their kindness to me.
01 July 2008
Almost a Plan
Here’s the closest thing to a plan that I have: I leave Lanzhou on Thursday with my friend Dustin. We’re not sure yet where we’re going. Dustin is meeting his brother back in Lanzhou after that, so from wherever we go, I’m going to travel by myself.
I don’t know where exactly, but I’ll go south first (Chengdu? Kunming?), then head east (Guangzhou?) and work my way up the coast. I’m avoiding Beijing, but will end up there in August. Dustin and another American friend, Ellen, are flying out of Beijing within a few days of when I do, so we’re planning to meet up and see each other off.
I know you’re probably thinking it’s not a good idea for me to travel alone, but I want to and I feel safe. Plus, I know I won’t be alone. Every foreign student in China will be traveling like me, so I’ll meet other westerners in the hostels, on the trains, and in the cities. And, wherever I go, I never have any problem meeting Chinese students.
Also, I’m going to keep in close contact with my Chinese friends. I hope to meet up with several of them, and their families all want me to stay with them for a few days.
I’m so excited to travel…
I don’t know where exactly, but I’ll go south first (Chengdu? Kunming?), then head east (Guangzhou?) and work my way up the coast. I’m avoiding Beijing, but will end up there in August. Dustin and another American friend, Ellen, are flying out of Beijing within a few days of when I do, so we’re planning to meet up and see each other off.
I know you’re probably thinking it’s not a good idea for me to travel alone, but I want to and I feel safe. Plus, I know I won’t be alone. Every foreign student in China will be traveling like me, so I’ll meet other westerners in the hostels, on the trains, and in the cities. And, wherever I go, I never have any problem meeting Chinese students.
Also, I’m going to keep in close contact with my Chinese friends. I hope to meet up with several of them, and their families all want me to stay with them for a few days.
I’m so excited to travel…
12 June 2008
Unplanned
I finally found out when my exams will be. There is no syllabus or academic calendar here, so up until this week, they've been saying vague things like "the end of June" and "the middle of July" which gives almost a whole month of leeway. I'm glad that I wasn't counting on any of this information to book train and plane tickets!
My exams are the final week in June, and I know they're going to be easy. Not only do I know the vocab, characters, and grammar that I'm responsible for, the university wants their program to look good. From what I've heard, they don't fail anyone. And, my grades here transfer back home as pass-fail. I'm just not worried at all.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do after my exams. "Unplanned" describes everything about this semester, and I intend to keep it that way. I fly home from Beijing August 10th, so between exams and then I'm going to travel. Some of my non-plans include traveling with my friend Dustin for a week or two, visiting some Chinese friends at their homes, and... ok, that's all. I think it will be more exciting to look at a map for some ideas, go to the train station, and then see what happens. I just want to travel all over China by train, and planning ruins the surprise.
My exams are the final week in June, and I know they're going to be easy. Not only do I know the vocab, characters, and grammar that I'm responsible for, the university wants their program to look good. From what I've heard, they don't fail anyone. And, my grades here transfer back home as pass-fail. I'm just not worried at all.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do after my exams. "Unplanned" describes everything about this semester, and I intend to keep it that way. I fly home from Beijing August 10th, so between exams and then I'm going to travel. Some of my non-plans include traveling with my friend Dustin for a week or two, visiting some Chinese friends at their homes, and... ok, that's all. I think it will be more exciting to look at a map for some ideas, go to the train station, and then see what happens. I just want to travel all over China by train, and planning ruins the surprise.
29 February 2008
Registering for Classes
After a train ride from Xi'an to Lanzhou- this one was only 8 hours, I arrived at Lanzhou University at about 6 in the morning on Thursday. Mr. Li from the Foreign Affairs Office met me at the train station and took me to the International Guest House, where the international students live. The guest house doubles as a hotel for visitors, so my room is essentially a hotel room that I share with a girl from Kazakhstan.
I registered at the university, registered for classes, and bought my textbooks that morning. The Beginning Chinese program consists of Chinese grammar, spoken Chinese, and Chinese characters. My five books cost the equivalent of $20. In America, I probably would have spent between $300 and $500.
My classes start on Monday, but I looked over the books and they start out very basic with the Chinese words for hello, how are you, etc. Learning the characters will be hardest for me, I think. I only know about five characters because until now, I have been using pinyin, which is English characters that correspond to Chinese sounds.
Once classes start, my roommate and I will try to only speak Chinese with each other. I can't wait to learn more Chinese.
I registered at the university, registered for classes, and bought my textbooks that morning. The Beginning Chinese program consists of Chinese grammar, spoken Chinese, and Chinese characters. My five books cost the equivalent of $20. In America, I probably would have spent between $300 and $500.
My classes start on Monday, but I looked over the books and they start out very basic with the Chinese words for hello, how are you, etc. Learning the characters will be hardest for me, I think. I only know about five characters because until now, I have been using pinyin, which is English characters that correspond to Chinese sounds.
Once classes start, my roommate and I will try to only speak Chinese with each other. I can't wait to learn more Chinese.
26 February 2008
Xi'an
I rode the train to Xi’an with Bei, her cousin, and her boyfriend. When the four of us got off the train, it was about 5:30 on Monday morning. We took a taxi to a university-owned hotel that Bei’s cousin knew of. The hotel was reasonably priced and very safe for us to stay in. We dropped off our luggage in our rooms and then we looked for breakfast- hot soy milk and fried bread.
After breakfast, I went back to the hotel room and took a much needed shower and nap. Bei, her cousin, and boyfriend met with some other friends from Xi’an, so I had the room to myself all morning and afternoon.
Because I was in the room most of the day, I didn’t get a good impression of Xi’an until the next day. The four of us spent the whole day on the streets of Xi’an, going to parks, shopping, and eating in restaurants.
Xi’an is so much cleaner and more beautiful than Fugu. The pollution in Xi’an is relatively unnoticeable, and city workers are constantly sweeping the sidewalks and picking up trash. There are so many more trees in Xi’an as well. I mentioned the parks that we visited; they celebrate the Tang Dynasty which ruled from Xi’an beginning at about 700 A.D. The parks are filled with trees, fountains, and sculptures.
As for the shopping, I had so much fun. With the exchange rate, most shirts cost about $7, and skirts and jackets are about $20. After searching for good prices and doing a bit of haggling (with help from Bei, of course), I got some great deals. The clothes here are very Chinese in the sense that they wouldn’t be found in America. I bought four items, all of which are strange, but I think it will be fun to wear them even when I come back to America.
Because we’re staying in hotel rooms without kitchens, we eat out for every meal. Our first day in Xi’an we ate regional specialties. One of which was a noodle dish that we might call soup in America. I enjoy spicy food, but was warned to order mine “not spicy” and it still will be. Mine was so spicy it made my tongue and lips numb, but I actually enjoyed it. To cool off we had another regional favorite- fried bread filled with mutton. To me, it seemed like a cross between a Greek gyro and a shredded beef sandwich. Since then we have been eating more traditional Chinese food.
Because of the delay between our train to Xi’an and to Lanzhou, we have a total of three days here. Bei tells me that Lanzhou will be more like Fugu as far as pollution. I wish we could stay in beautiful Xi’an longer!
After breakfast, I went back to the hotel room and took a much needed shower and nap. Bei, her cousin, and boyfriend met with some other friends from Xi’an, so I had the room to myself all morning and afternoon.
Because I was in the room most of the day, I didn’t get a good impression of Xi’an until the next day. The four of us spent the whole day on the streets of Xi’an, going to parks, shopping, and eating in restaurants.
Xi’an is so much cleaner and more beautiful than Fugu. The pollution in Xi’an is relatively unnoticeable, and city workers are constantly sweeping the sidewalks and picking up trash. There are so many more trees in Xi’an as well. I mentioned the parks that we visited; they celebrate the Tang Dynasty which ruled from Xi’an beginning at about 700 A.D. The parks are filled with trees, fountains, and sculptures.
As for the shopping, I had so much fun. With the exchange rate, most shirts cost about $7, and skirts and jackets are about $20. After searching for good prices and doing a bit of haggling (with help from Bei, of course), I got some great deals. The clothes here are very Chinese in the sense that they wouldn’t be found in America. I bought four items, all of which are strange, but I think it will be fun to wear them even when I come back to America.
Because we’re staying in hotel rooms without kitchens, we eat out for every meal. Our first day in Xi’an we ate regional specialties. One of which was a noodle dish that we might call soup in America. I enjoy spicy food, but was warned to order mine “not spicy” and it still will be. Mine was so spicy it made my tongue and lips numb, but I actually enjoyed it. To cool off we had another regional favorite- fried bread filled with mutton. To me, it seemed like a cross between a Greek gyro and a shredded beef sandwich. Since then we have been eating more traditional Chinese food.
Because of the delay between our train to Xi’an and to Lanzhou, we have a total of three days here. Bei tells me that Lanzhou will be more like Fugu as far as pollution. I wish we could stay in beautiful Xi’an longer!
Trains
Trains are a common form of transportation in China. I took a train from Bei’s hometown of Fugu to the capital of the same province, Xi’an. The train ride lasted 15.5 hours. That’s two hours longer than my flight from Chicago to Beijing!
Not only was the train ride long, it was also crowded and dirty. When we found our row of three seats and a small table between another row of three seats, there were sunflower seed shells all over the table and floor, as well as some orange peels. Then, instead of six of us sitting in one section, there were eight.
At least we had seats; you can get a ticket for the train but not have a seat. People were standing, sitting and sleeping in the aisles, in between cars, and on the steps between the upper and lower cars. There was no room to move. We had no choice but to step on people to get to the dining car.
Speaking of the dining car, I thought the food was good. I had beef and potatoes with rice. It tasted slightly like a roast. The Chinese people I was with thought it was horrible, though.
I was able to get some sleep on the train because I was against the window and could rest my head. Of course, my sleep was often interrupted because the train was so noisy and would often stop abruptly. My neck hurt when we got off the train as well.
I tell you all of these things, but I don’t want anyone to think that I am complaining. It was a new experience for me to ride a train this way, and I want to honestly describe it to you. I had fun on the train, getting to know those I was with and learning about train travel in China. Honestly, it was a good experience. I tell all of these negative aspects because want everyone who reads this, presumably from America, to know how fortunate we are!
Not only was the train ride long, it was also crowded and dirty. When we found our row of three seats and a small table between another row of three seats, there were sunflower seed shells all over the table and floor, as well as some orange peels. Then, instead of six of us sitting in one section, there were eight.
At least we had seats; you can get a ticket for the train but not have a seat. People were standing, sitting and sleeping in the aisles, in between cars, and on the steps between the upper and lower cars. There was no room to move. We had no choice but to step on people to get to the dining car.
Speaking of the dining car, I thought the food was good. I had beef and potatoes with rice. It tasted slightly like a roast. The Chinese people I was with thought it was horrible, though.
I was able to get some sleep on the train because I was against the window and could rest my head. Of course, my sleep was often interrupted because the train was so noisy and would often stop abruptly. My neck hurt when we got off the train as well.
I tell you all of these things, but I don’t want anyone to think that I am complaining. It was a new experience for me to ride a train this way, and I want to honestly describe it to you. I had fun on the train, getting to know those I was with and learning about train travel in China. Honestly, it was a good experience. I tell all of these negative aspects because want everyone who reads this, presumably from America, to know how fortunate we are!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)